Three new luxury fashion books have been released celebrating the trajectory of three significant male leads in the world of couture: Paolo Roversi, Olivier Theyskens and Loris Azzaro
A new publication from Rizzoli documents the Italian photographer’s partnership with Dior, and includes handwritten notes from the man himself to models, magazine editors and the house’s creative directors through the years.
All three volumes contain his rarely seen interpretations of the fashion house’s cutting-edge creations.
Roversi is known for his mastery of the labour intensive Polaroid process. It enabled him to move away from the realism of snapping silhouettes and strip down a tableau to its essence – a technique he describes as capturing “a kind of absence”.
Paolo Roversi, by Paolo Roversi, text by Emanuele Coccia. Published 27 February by Rizzoli, £95, rizzoliusa.com
To coincide with an exhibition on the Belgium-born fashion designer at the ModeMuseum (MoMu) in Antwerp, She Walks in Beauty documents the purity of Theyskens’ approach, which has occasionally been overshadowed by the industry’s ruthless approach to commerce.
Two decades in fashion has seen Theyskens ousted from his contract as creative director at Nina Ricci in 2009 – to which Anna Wintour voiced her disgust in an issue of American Vogue – before launching his own label. He continues to champion a romantic and often gothic aesthetic, supported by international icons such as Stella Tennant, Madonna and Daphne Guinness.
She Walks in Beauty, by Kaat Debo, Elisa De Wyngaert, Vanessa Friedman, Lydia Kamitsis and Wim Mertens. Published by Rizzoli Electa, £45, rizzoliusa.com
The late couturier founded his fashion house in Paris in 1967, and his sparkling, disco-ready designs provided high-octane dresses for the heady Studio 54 era. His inspiration began with his wife and muse, Michelle Azzaro, whom he would envisage wearing his pieces; before his figure-hugging silhouettes and daring cut-outs graced the likes of Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch and Nicole Kidman.
As well as interviews with the people who knew the designer best, Azzaro: Fifty Years of Glitter includes an indulgent selection of images by photographers, such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin.
Azzaro: Fifty Years of Glitter, by Serge Gleizes. Published 27 February by Abrams, £40, abramsbooks.com