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Mei Ume: Restaurant Review

High quality food of an Asian persuasion at the Four Seasons Ten Trinity Square

All top restaurants trade off one signature dish. Mei Ume, the Chinese-Japanese hybrid that recently opened in Four Seasons Ten Trinity Square, is hoping that the dish to get the City flocking will be its whole Peking duck.

It’s up against stiff competition, not least from Hutong, the Chinese restaurant on level 33 of The Shard. 

Unlike Hutong, Mei Ume can’t rely on its views, which isn’t an issue, because here, it’s the food that does the talking. In imposing, if unemotive surroundings – you can’t shake the feeling that Mei Ume is a side project of what is largely a corporate hotel – Head Chef Tony Truong, formerly of Royal China, and Sushi Chef Mun Seok Choi, from Sake no Hana, have created a menu to rival any of London’s upmarket Asian fusion eateries. 

Dishes are kept purposefully simple. Spicy tuna with karashi and parmesan flakes, anyone? How about barbecue wagyu beef with caramelised onions? As for the whole Peking duck, it’s served with pancakes, leeks and cucumber first, and then as crispy duck with salt and pepper. You’d be a fool to miss it.