The Square Mile's latest private members' club is accepting applications. Luxury London has a look behind the scenes at Ten Trinity Square
My server, dressed in a grey tweed suit, is proffering a large format bottle of Les Forts de Latour 2003 to accompany the cheese. I’m not usually a Bordeaux fanatic (possibly because of the expense incurred by wines of this calibre) but this really is a force of nature – with an inky depth, bewildering complexity and stubborn length on the palate. It happens to be the coup de grâce that has me sold on The Club at Ten Trinity Square, the recently opened private members’ hangout at the Square Mile’s Four Seasons, launched in partnership with the hotel, Château Latour and the Reignwood Group.
Tucked away in the western wing of the hotel, overlooking Seething Lane Garden just opposite of the Tower of London, the club occupies its own private annex of the Grade II* listed building. It was originally home to the Port of London Authority, designed by renowned architect Sir Edwin Cooper and opened by Prime Minister David Lloyd George in 1922.
Inside, the dark walnut and oak panelling and high, strikingly moulded ceilings are mostly original. However, new design features were introduced by Bruno Moinard, who has carried the torch from his 2014 refurbishment of Château Latour, in Pauillac, to maintain consistency.
After entering through a colonnaded foyer, a long corridor wends its way through the club, its carpet patterned with a wine-red depiction of the River Gironde in Bordeaux. Following it to its end, you’ll pass through a variety of boardrooms that served as offices in the original building, now repurposed as meeting rooms, cigar lounges, an art gallery, two restaurants and a billiards room.
Additionally, there’s the stunning Château Latour Discovery Room that caters for the oenophiles – guests have the opportunity to explore various wines by the glass, flight or bottle. It’s an impressive collection, including a couple of £10,000 vintages dating back to 1939.
For the food offering, Ten Trinity Square enlisted the talents of Anne-Sophie Pic, who runs La Dame de Pic, only the fourth female chef to earn three Michelin stars at her restaurant Maison Pic in Valence, southern France. She’s also the third generation of gastronomic heavyweights in her family, having learned the ropes from her father Jacques Pic and grandfather André Pic.
Pic also looks after the private fine dining restaurant of The Club, too. She draws inspiration from her ancestral cookbooks, modernising the rich butter and cream-led dishes for contemporary palates and creating beautiful foils for the wine. Teaming up with wine director Jan Konetzki (former head sommelier at Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road) they’ve created some truly ambrosial pairings.
The food at The Club is superb. I’m particularly smitten by an old school mosaïque de foie gras and mullet served with a bouillabaisse jelly, which finds a beautiful mate in the best glass of viognier I’ve ever experienced. It’s a Côte du Rhône de Château Grillet 2014, which has unusually been given its own appellation. I’m similarly taken by a lemony risotto, made with acquerello rice and spiked with verbena and light acid tomatoes that is paired with a lively Sauvignon Blanc from the Eisele Vineyard in Napa.
But it’s really the last wine I imbibe that has me wistfully reminiscing about it for days to come – the mind-bending Les Forts de Latour – which is a testament to both the greatness of one of France’s most famous wine estates and why the Ten Trinity Square Club is likely to become an international destination for those who prefer the best of the best.